With high expectations for the BRACHMANN collection, the audience is left sitting in the dark while loud music is playing in the Stage@Me Collectors Room at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin. Only focusing on beats and not the sour rounding, every person in the room is waiting patiently for the models to finally walk the runway.
When the male model steps in he spotlight, BRACHMANN’s unique style is visible right away. Clean cuts, architectural lines and geometric forms are the Autumn/Winter 2016/17 collection’s dominating style. The introduction of classic pieces such as trench coats and dress-shirts is surprisingly interesting: even though designer Jennifer Brachmann is not inventing fashion anew, she is reinventing every single piece and gives a new life to men’s office looks. With the variety of chic professional looks for men being limited, Brachmann creates a collection that is as useful as it is aesthetically pleasing. Patch pleats give slight volume to trousers, geometrical necklines turn long light wool sleeves into interesting centre pieces. One outfit that stands out is the combination of dress trousers in a dark blue, worn with bright orange woollen knitwear and a coat matching the bottoms. Hence, even though the model is not wearing a buttoned down shirt, nor a vest, the outfit remains perfect for any high-end office job.
Concealed buttons in shirt coats that are usually double breasted instead of only showing one line of buttons, bring an exciting variety into the collection. A surprising contrast is also noticeable in the used colour scheme, since the outfits mostly ranged from dark blue to grey and black, but here a bright rusty orange tone offers an exiting highlight.
Working with wool, merino wool and sturdy loden, the looks of the BRACHMANN outfits range from an urban easiness to a minimalistic elegance.