Her designs for Autumn/Winter 2017 are inspired by the rich cultural heritage of Azerbaijan, more precisely from Karabakh, the southwestern region, which captivates its very own beautiful landscapes and natural finishes. Azerbaijan’s legacy as a hub on the historical silk road and as a leader in horse breeding can be seen as an essential influence for her collection. And accordingly her garments looked like it. But whoever now thinks of lumberjacks or countrymen is wrong.
The men hit the runway in knee-high leather boots, straight cut pants, classic shirts, jersey turtlenecks and wide coats, many of them decorated with leather elements like straps and belts. The female models showed midi skirts, coats with fur trimming, high waisted trousers and black turtlenecks combined with vest-like tops.
Leonie Mergen spend a lot of her childhood afternoons watching her grandma and aunt work as tailors, so her interest in fashion came early. Fascinated by the craft, she played copycat on her own dresses, customising and experimenting throughout most of her youth. In 2014 she finished her studies at Berlin’s International University of Art (ESMOD) and since then she has developed her own bold ideas and style.
Most of her garments are refined with details like set-in patterns, which refer to the county’s famous tapestries. Black, white and grey are the main colours, accompanied by light and midnight blue, dark reds and bordeaux, which gave the whole collection the look of something tough but splendid at the same time. Maybe a bit like the roughness and beauty of Azerbaijan’s landscapes.