PACO RABANNE – a Spanish brand famous for its limitless desire for innovation and surprising use of extreme materials like metal, glass and plastic. Dresses made of paper or even chain mails floating down the catwalk. Not rarely used: soldering iron, wire and pliers. Lydia Maurer, the new Creative Director of Paco Rabanne shares this passion for exceptional fabrics and continues the business and tradition with her Spring/Summer 2013 collection at the Grand Palais in Paris. Creations that reflect the eternal silhouette of Rabanne.
This season Artistic Director Maurer got fascinated by the power of movement. Movement that is rhythmic, rebellious and powerful. Spectacular dresses proceed vigorously along the catwalk. And you can already hear them coming from the distance: architectural, crafted, experimental metal dresses. Clothes made for strong and independent women, with an erotic charisma like Marisa Berenson and Anita Pallenberg, two leading muses of the House.
Not to deny the influence of the Seventies, the silhouettes exert the most influential: pronounced shoulders, geometric constructions and remarkable cut-outs that show off skin. And it were these exceptional materials, typically Paco Rabanne, that gave the silhouettes their frame: chain mails between metal and silicon; tanned water snakes with a plastic transparency.
What could me more appropriate to chain mails than high-thigh sandals with interlaced leather straps snaking around the calves? Lydia Maurer shows us movement in chain dresses swinging down the runway in purple, black, silver and gold. A collection that continues the heritage of Paco Rabanne usual sexy.
[Text and Photo by Steffi Baumgaertner]