For their first catwalk show, ANTONIA GOY’s designers Antonia Goy and Bjoern Kubeja had the honour to host their guests at Der Berliner Mode Salon’s Kronprinzenpalais. With an autumn/winter 2017 reflective of change and frustration, the duo mirrored society and chose to express their feeling through fashion.
While Antonia Goy has always followed a career in fashion, leading her to found her eponymous label in 2006, her business partner, with whom she teamed up in 2009, comes from an architecture background. Such a combination gives harmony between lines and silhouettes, sculpture and body.
The general feeling of this collection was probably that of determination. With a dark makeup and strong expressions, the models impersonated strength and will-power, leaning forward and no turning back. These elements were represented in the garments’ masculine details, such as broad shoulders, tailoring and dark colours, and were then put in contrast to dresses, ruffles, bows and fuchsia to underline the fact that femininity could be bold. In the details, a black wool oversized coat was feminized by a belt knotted around the waist and strings of fabric at the sleeves to enable a potential bow finish.
All in all, the outfits were full of contradictions: shirts’ lines were part vertical and part horizontal; a black jumpsuit was only part leather. While prints and fabrics were mixed and matched, the finalized looks were actually harmonious and hence illustrated a certain cohesion – and how to learn to live together, despite our differences. From deconstructed and reassembled to unfinished hems, the designers gave an edge to smart clothing and elegance. As a highlight of this aspect, a black dress was complemented by a hood, which instantly took a stance against the bias cut and pink escarpins.
Antonia Goy and Bjoern Kubeja’s first runway show clearly challenged their guests’ perception. Of their label and the world. With an air of revolution, this collection was in fact a love declaration to differences and a rebellion against the world’s alienation.