Femininity and the female body were the key focus in EMILIO DE LA MORENA’s Autumn/Winter 2017 collection on the last day of London Fashion Week. The use of materials and textures worked to enhance and highlight sections of the body in flattering ways. Inspired by the designer’s background, the collection was fuelled by a mix of London and Spanish influences.
The fabrics, sourced from Spain, were relaxed and fun in a way that represented the designer’s heritage mood. Mixed with the sharp tailoring and structures, the designer recognised the feeling of London and its unsung couturiers of the eighties.
De la Morena used light fabrics in structured designs to create a balance between the figure hugging designs and sharp tailoring. The attention to detail and shapes of bodies through the tailoring was innovative and fresh, yet classically traditional. Cut perfectly to the body in elegant and fresh ways, the designer aimed to celebrate the female figure in a way that both exposed and protected it – creating a modern sense of femininity.
Texture was used as an important tool – from mohair coats to evening gowns immersed in lace. The textures aligned with the tailoring of each piece worked to enhance the body.
The colours used across the collection were a nod to the designer’s home country, taking inspiration from the colour-combining techniques of Picasso’s late cubist portraits. Mixing bold fuchsia, canary yellow and azure blue against striking blacks brought the collection to life. With specs of pastel pinks and mint greens throughout, the colours worked to both celebrate the designer’s heritage and give note to the differences between London and Valencia.