With the clean finish of the British Fashion Council show space, the collection by EUDON CHOI created a calming presence at London Fashion Week Autumn/Winter 2017. The neutral tones of the pieces worked in harmony with their surroundings.
The classic pieces that made up the collection – double breasted jackets, blue and white striped shirts, parkas and trench coats – were deconstructed and given new purpose. The familiarly of the pieces were challenged through the unconventional styling of each outfit.
Entitled „Ornament and Crime“, the collection was classic and minimalist in its design, inspired by Adolf Loos’ controversial essay of the same name. The structured silhouettes of the deconstructed garments, with minimalist details, mirrored Loos’ theory of removing ornament from everyday objects.
The designs were beautiful and raw. Choi allowed the materials and cut of each design to stand out on their own, away from the influence of ornament. The utilitarian designs challenged the traditional ideas of tailoring, mixing both soft waist lines and hems with strong tailoring aspects to focus on the power of the fabric.
Working in collaboration with Decke, a global brand bag, Choi created a range of handbags inspired by Loos’ most iconic works „Villa Müller“, which are available on the designer’s website directly after the show as part of the „See Now Buy Now“ objective.
Using a neutral palette of warm greys, sky blues and creams, the designer updated it with soft khakis and light lilacs to further enhance the modern take on the idea of design without excess. Each look was paired with simple, clean ponytails or bobs, with each model sporting simplistic make up and a bold lip, tying each look together as a statement of Choi’s translation of Ornament and Crime, the elegance of simplicity.