If menswear designers are in minority at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin, it does not affect the quality of work presented – and especially that of BRACHMANN. At the Stage@me Collectors room, a wave of models took over the exhibition space to present Jennifer Brachmann’s latest spring/summer 2017 collection.
Since January 2014, BRACHMANN has both inaugurated their label and presented as part of Berlin’s fashion week. Heavily inspired by architecture – and more precisely the Bauhaus movement – BRACHMANN looks at shapes and constructions in order to rethink the male silhouette. If the designs appear clean and simple, it is thanks to all the complicated and precise work put behind them to reinvent men’s garments.
This season again, BRACHMANN’s designs revealed to be close to perfection. Taking maritime classics as inspiration, Jennifer Brachmann looked at how to shed a new light on decades-old garments. Rethought sailor shirts and trousers and trench and Duffle coats were put on the pedestal they deserved. The most striking look consisted of a dark blue Duffle coat, worn over a grey shirt and straight, light blue, short trousers. Completed with classic black work shoes, Brachmann converted a sailor’s work wear into an outfit suitable for other work situations.
The dominant colour palette of black, white, grey and various shades of blue created a nice link between BRACHMANN’s signature and the maritime inspiration. She used waterproofed cotton for coats and jackets, which would not only prevent from an uncertain spring, but from a raging sea as well. Such details made the collection even more coherent and worth the pedestals on which it was presented.
BRACHMANN’s spring/summer 2017 is inspired by old maritime classics, only to use them better in our modern days. The designer proved once again her close allusions to Bauhaus, in the construction and minimalist style, but also to architects’ amazing meticulous work, which she transcribed into fashion design.