July 2018

I’ VR ISABEL VOLLRATH

October 25, 2018July 6, 2018 by Beatrix von Winterfeldt-Heuser

As final of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin the label I’ VR Isabel Vollrath presented its Spring/Summer 2019 collection with the theme “Poetry of Light”.

As always the Berlin based designer Isabel Vollrath‘s collection is characterized by its unmistakable symbiosis of fashion, poetry and art. The imaginative setting of her new collection is Venice with its contrasting combination of pomp, glamour, mystery, morbidity and decay.

For her designs with a dedicated style Isabel Vollrath choses fabrics of different quality and firmness. Delicate, transparent silk organza, thin wool, cotton, like, gauze and tulle are combined to three-dimensional designs that reflect the morbid fronts of the Venetian palazzi. We see draperies, ribbons, puffed sleeves, long, narrow cuffs, projecting skirts, wide, pleaded trousers, layers and high-necked tops that make up a collection full of contrasts like the city of its imaginary origin and its inhabitants.

A collection that ranges from very pure and reduced coats over casual combinations of tops and trousers to opulent dresses decorated with silkscreen prints in a “Venetian Window” style that have been especially developed by the designer. The color palette comprises pure white, gold, copper, yellow, orange tones and different shades of blue to reflect sky and water and thus is a picture of what we will find in the lagoon city.

Overall Isabel Vollrath presented a collection that fascinates by her skillful play with colors, shapes, fabrics, patterns and special draperies.

IVANMAN

October 25, 2018July 5, 2018 by Beatrix von Winterfeldt-Heuser

On the third day Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin showed the Berlin based label Ivanman.

The statements “Mine, Yours or His” printed on Ivan Mandzukic’s Spring/Summer 2019 line might be misleading with regards to the ownership of each piece. Whereas there is no doubt of the nature of each product as the product names are printed on jackets, shirts, trousers or socks being actively included into the design. All this adds a big wink to the collection which is called “Back to Business” and is inspired by the hustle and bustle at the New York Stock Exchange and the addiction to possessions of its employees. Contrary to the hectic which dominates the Wall Street handsome models pace up and down the runway accompanied by a monotonic voice presenting a fresh and somewhat different collection.

Ivanman is challenging the traditional business look and sets it into a modern and contemporary context. Rather classical slim cut trousers in black or checked patterns are combined with oversized coats, jackets and blazers and skintight knitwear tops. The mostly sportswear inspired tops come in bright colors like Yellow, Red, Blue and Mint which nicely contrasts the bottoms in various ways.

Overall Ivan Mandzukic succeeded in creating an inspiring and wearable collection for the modern business man who does not hesitate to pull his leg.

MARINA HOERMANSEDER

January 17, 2019July 5, 2018 by Beatrix von Winterfeldt-Heuser

Marina Hoermanseder fashion shows always start long before the first model hits the runway.

Unlike most of the other shows at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin Marina Hoermanseder’s Spring/Summer 2019 presentation does not take place within Berlin’s E-Werk but in front of it. In plain sunshine and at 30°Celcius a highly stylish fashion crowd meets with Champaign and Mozartkugeln. Influencers, models, starlets and VIPs have been dressed in Marina Hoermanseder designs and her iconic buckle can be seen everywhere. Those who are fast enough can even catch a ride with the specially set up big wheel in front of the venue.

Once everybody has taken his seat, the event can begin. Already the first dress gives an idea that the show is going to reveal a visual firework: the model who is wearing a dream made of shimmering layers of tulle with a buckled tulle top and a reflecting latex belt has her face covered with a heart of crystals.

For her new collection Marina Hoermanseder has set up a “wonderland of satirical allusions and optical illusions”. The designer takes us to glittering Las Vegas of the 90s. Heart shaped tops, balloon like dresses, layered tulle, shiny fabrics that shimmer in all colors of the spectrum, metallic effects, moiré, custom made prints, plastics and knitted pieces make up a collection that is full of surprise and imagination. Of course neither the iconic Marina Hoermanseder strap skirt nor the typical buckle is missing. They strap skirt this time is interpreted with romantic tulle and iridescent latex. The buckle decorates blazers, trousers and prints.

Although the runway collection boasts imaginative and inspiring designs, many well wearable designs are presented and the spectator gets a taste of what will be available in store to the fashionable clients who love individuality and look for a statement to stress their unique style.

LENA HOSCHEK

October 25, 2018July 4, 2018 by Victoria Richter

Just in time for Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin, summer came finally to the German capital. So, fashion designer Lena Hoschek presented her Spring/Summer 2019 collection “Tutti Frutti”, which can definitely be seen as a sweet temptation!

The audience was thrilled, because they’d love to get dressed themselves in Hoschek’s new collection, which includes swinging summer dresses, tiny tops, airy wrap dresses with romantic details, Carmen blouses and the well known ribbon skirts, whilst summer took over the city. Including Bossa Nova songs and a danced defilee.

To get the tropical feeling at it’s best, the designer did a few plain Shirts with cute exotic animal prints like cockatoos or toucans – but by taking a closer look they turned out to be fruit arrangements! Her new designs were not only about fruit prints, they were also about embroidered pineapple and lemon pieces. On top Lena Hoschek put stripes, sensational flounces and some clean but colorful pieces. Serving as an ode to the sun, the colours range from precious pinks, through vibrant oranges to beaming yellows.

The collections highlight was the lemonade wedding dress, a bespoke couture gown of Couturier Thomas Kirchgrabner. It impressed with excessive draping and lots of silk taff layers of ruffles in fresh citrus tones. The perfect combination to the clothes were some playful basket bags by Nannacay. Nothing new, because basket bags are a huge trend this summer, but super cute and perfectly fitting into the collection!

For more than ten years now, Lena Hoschek is famous for her feminine retro style: Nostalgic but modern fashion in the style of the 40s and 50s. In her current collection, the designer combines traditional craftsmanship, precious materials and bold colors and masters to create a passionate intermezzo of palmtree leafs and fruits combined with refined silhouettes to transport the tropical and happy vibes straight into office wear and everyday life.

IRENE LUFT

October 25, 2018July 4, 2018 by Beatrix von Winterfeldt-Heuser

Tuesday evening the runway of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin belonged to Irene Luft and her Spring/Summer 2019 line “Neon Noir”.

The Munich based designer Irene Luft who is renowned for her opulent and impressive evening-wear presented a collection that reflects the designers’ tendencies for the contrary. A colorful choice of materials combined with dark accents and transparencies is styled following a surreal Asian inspired approach. The result is a show which is romantic, feminine and somewhat gloomy at the same time.

We see a color palette ranging from dark vine, over dark and ice-blue to white and gold; always combined with blacks emphasizing the color it is styled with and strengthening the look.

Expansive, swinging skirts, elegant tops and dresses meet sporty elements like bomber jackets and sneakers. Translucent, romantic fabrics and shapes are combined with hard and shiny cuts and materials which skillfully support the image of modern women: feminine but strong at the same time.

GUIDO MARIA KRETSCHMER

October 25, 2018July 4, 2018 by Victoria Richter

It’s almost a tradition that Guido Maria Kretschmer kicks off at Berlin Fashion Week. The well known designer, who also works as host of the German TV-show called “Shopping Queen” always manages to have the highest density of German celebrities in his front row. Beside a lot of German TV-Stars we had a look on his beautiful new collection.

For the second time Kretschmer teamed up with the german fashion retailer “Otto” and presented with “Lineless Light” a collection which was about current summer looks and the upcoming fall/winter season for man and women. Somehow unusual, but pretty nice though!

The collection was a fine and wearable mixture of glamourous long dresses for women and smart velvet suits for men. Kretschmer, who loves to design glitter gowns, combined some transparent pieces like fishnet-tights with flower applications to warm winter coats. He put flounces on sleeves of tops and pullovers, flower prints on jackets and skirts and assimilated a few plaid pattern. Highlight was a grey top, which was hold by a small shiny jewlery-string at the back

Colorful shades like mustard-yellow and intense purple went along with black, white and grey. “The colors are inspired by my travels”, the designer explained afterwards. “First I had a wonderful trip to Morocco. Then I went to Marrakech and was lucky enough to visit the Yves Saint Laurent house, which impressed me a lot. Right after that I traveled to Scandinavia, which of course was a great contrast.” The color-mixture of his Arabic and Scandinavian impressions reflect very well in his new designs.

Lineless Light is an airy and easy-going collection, including casual leisure looks and combing a lot of recurring fashion trends. Well done!

BOTTER

October 25, 2018July 3, 2018 by Sarah Weyers

With unpredictable and exciting silhouettes, and an interesting mix of materials, the Dutch newcomer label Botter kicked off Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin Spring/Summer 2019 with their collection “Al Fombra”. The design duo Rushemy Botter & Lisi Herrebrugh has recently been awarded the Grand Prix du jury Premiere Vision at the 33rd edition of Festival International de la Mode et de la Photographie d’Hyères this past April.

Corresponding with Mercedes-Benz’s own emerging design talent program, the International Designer Exchange Program, the company puts an emphasis on supporting young talent. Alongside the show, the exhibition “Mercedes Benz presents the Hyères Festival 2018 Fashion Shortlist”, took place, giving a platform to the finalists of the competition, which was in collaboration with the hosts of the festival, Villa Noailles.

In line with their Caribbean heritage, Rushemy Botter & Lisi Herrebrugh put a strong and visible focus on the mixture of beauty and misery, creativity and poverty, masculinity and non-gender-conformity. According to the designers, they were inspired by the lotto shops on the street corners of the Dominican Republic and Curacao, were poor people would spend their last money in hopes of winning the big prize; yet, those prizes were rarely given out.

With this in mind, the mixture of hope and poverty was portrayed very visibly in trash bags tied to perfectly cut shirts, fisher nets dangling off jackets or water toys worn as hats. The beauty of the ocean, taunted by pollution; dreams of a brighter future taunted by reality.

Surprising silhouettes dominated the collection, with strong H-and O-forms, oversized jackets and layers of various different materials. The intend behind using fabrics such as plastic, cotton and nylon was to out an emphasis on the atmosphere between these controversies. Prints were used to make them even more visible. Simplicity meets luxury in terms of fabric use, and a collection that could be worn every day turns into a piece of art; all with the touch of reality.

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